I was just watching a video by a professional drag race mechanic, and he was describing how they keep the spark plugs lit while the cylinders are literally being doused by massive amounts of fuel. He mentioned they use a 45-amp ignition system.
It got me thinking: how does that relate to our typical motorcycle coils that we always talk about in terms of 30,000 Volts? Where do the Amps actually come into the equation for us?
Here is the breakdown of why that "Dragster Logic" actually matters for your bike.
Volts vs. Amps: The Pressure and the Punch
To understand the difference, think of a spark as having two distinct jobs:
- The Voltage (The Breakthrough): Think of this as "Electrical Pressure." You need high voltage (30k–40k Volts) just to "punch" through the air gap between your plug electrodes. On a street bike, this is the headline number because jumping that gap is the first hurdle.
- The Amperage (The Volume): This is the "Electrical Volume." This is what the drag mechanic was talking about. Once the voltage jumps the gap, the Amps determine how "fat" and hot that flame is.
The Dragster Reality: Those guys are pumping so much fuel into the engine it’s like a liquid mist. A standard 30k volt spark would be "drowned out" instantly. They use 45 Amps to create an arc-welder-like flame that stays lit no matter how much fuel hits it.
Can You Increase the "Amps" on Your Bike?
While we aren't running Nitro, increasing the amperage to your motorcycle coils can improve throttle response, starting, and idling. Here’s how you do it safely: Your Hand Held Dyno ignition has Amp control built in, it's required for our Long Duration Spark technology!
1. The "Managed Dwell Time" (The Hand Held Dyno Software way)
Amperage builds up in a coil over time. This is called Dwell.
- How it works: With a modern ignition (like the Hand Held Dyno®), we have optimized the dwell time to maximise Amps to suit 3 ohm coils (5 Ohm coils are also suitable) for this very purpose. This allows the amperage to climb to its maximum potential before firing.
- The Result: You get our proprietary Long Duration Spark that carries more total energy (Joules) into the combustion chamber.
2. Reducing Resistance (Increasing Amps via Hardware. Caution, this can destroy your ignition)
- According to Ohm’s Law, if you lower resistance, you increase Amps (Amps = Volts / Ohms). Just like holding your thumb over the garden hose!
- The Idea: Swapping 5.0-ohm coils for 3.0-ohm or 1.5-ohm "Performance" coils forces more Amps through the system.
- The Danger: WATCH OUT! If your ignition module or points weren't designed for high-amp flow, you’ll fry them. Always match your coil's Ohms to what your ignition manufacturer specifies to use! We specify 3 and 5 ohm coils only as they work best with our Long Duration Spark technology.
3. The Relay Kit (The "Free" Energy Fix)
Old wiring and crusty ignition switches can cause "voltage drop." If your coils are only getting 11 Volts instead of 14.4 Volts, your Amperage output drops significantly.
- The Pro Tip: Run a dedicated relay from your battery to your coils. This ensures they have all the "pressure" (Volts) they need to pull the maximum "volume" (Amps).
The Bottom Line
We usually shop for coils based on Volts because that’s what’s on the box, but Amps are what actually burn the fuel. By ensuring your wiring is solid and your dwell is optimized, you’re essentially giving your bike a "mini-magneto" upgrade—ensuring that even if your carburetors are running a bit rich, that fire stays lit.
Be sure to visit earlier Hand Held Dyno Coils Pt 1 and Hand Held Dyno Coils 2